Fashion designers on the cutting edgeIt's a career tailor-made for those who love clothes and embrace change. Toss in some sewing skills and the ability to draw and you've got the makings of a fashion designer responsible for creating everything from glamourous gowns to a humble pair of socks. LINDA WHITE |
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"Fashion is about change, so you need to be enthusiastic about that. It will allow you to embrace colours and design," says Lucia Dell'Agnese of Ryerson University's Fashion Design Program. "Drawing and sewing are important skills. Not all high schools have those courses in the curriculum, but you can pick those skills up outside the classroom."
Ryerson's fashion design students develop skills in advanced pattern making, couture design, textile design, computer-aided design, visual communication and business management. After first year, they specialize in fashions communications or fashion design. Fashion communications prepares students for marketing, advertising, public relations and fashion writing.
Design students must complete a work placement, which allows them to explore non-traditional areas such as haute couture and costume design. "We dabble in leather, knits and lingerie. If students are interested in those areas, they take that cue and work for a lingerie manufacturer, for example," Dell'Agnese says.
Some fashion designers are self-employed, working alone or in small businesses, creating clothing for individual clients. But most work for clothing manufacturers, creating clothing and accessories for mass-marketing efforts following established trends. Many of Ryerson's grads work at Abercrombie & Fitch, Wal-Mart, Zellers and Holt Renfrew and many can be seen at the One of a Kind Show in Toronto.
"It's hard to make it on your own because you need a lot of financial background and support," Dell'Agnese says. "Usually, graduates gain some experience and then go off on their own. When they graduate from here, it's like they're continuing their education in a workplace setting."
Fashion designers often work long hours to meet production deadlines or to prepare for fashion shows. They need to be able to work independently and as part of a team. "Even if you're on your own, you still have to deal with buyers and retailers. Flexibility and adaptability are important," Dell'Agnese says. "You can't personalize the work. You have to take it, do it and move on to something else."
More and more, computers are impacting the design process. "Computers have really made an impact in our industry," says Lori Stilwell of the International Academy of Design & Technology in Toronto. "We're seeing paperless drafting rooms, so computer skills are among the skills you'll need to succeed. Drawing is still definitely important. You often start your design with a hand-drawn sketch."
Making mistakes is part of the learning process. Students create their designs using inexpensive cotton after drafting a pattern. "It allows them to see lines in their design and how it drapes. They then go back to their patterns and make any necessary alterations," Stilwell says. "Their design can look different in the fabric they envisioned. We want them to make mistakes so they can learn from them."
As you gain experience in the workplace, you can move up to more senior design positions. Entry-level positions include pattern maker, the person responsible for interpreting sketches provided by the fashion designer and providing first patterns.
A sample maker constructs the garment, while a merchandiser is responsible for fabric sourcing, importing and monitoring productivity. A technical designer ensures garments are in appropriate fabrics, measurements and construction details.
"When you're working at a smaller company, you often have the opportunity to do all jobs, which is a good experience," Stilwell says. "It's important to understand all positions. It's difficult to tell people what to do for you if you don't know how to do it yourself. By sewing, for example, you become a better pattern drafter."
Canadian designers have a strong reputation. "Americans often comment on the quality of our construction," Stilwell says. "We're known to do fall lines well. They're practical and fashionable ... I - Toronto, we're seeing multiculturalism in the school. Our students love to incorporate elements of their culture into fashion."